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Thank you for visiting our site  Benofkentprops!

 

If there is a prop you can’t see or you want to adapt add or take away from a kit or prop let us know and we can change the item. 

 

If you are interested in payment plans please let us know and we can set this up, this is usually done vis PayPal and with each payment we resend you an invoice. There is no time frame or set amount to be paid, on the last payment we send the item.

 

When purchasing please note that everything is made to order and we have processing times if your not sure please let us know.

 

We are always around if you need to message us on here or message on

benofkent@googlemail.com

 

 

 

When buying kits: 

 

When the kit arrives please make sure you wash the resin parts in warm soapy water and left to naturally dry.

The shell is ready to be painted, we have primed already ready for the black paint either Matt black or satin black if you like a shiny look.

When working in the shell be careful not to leave the shell in its end for long periods of time without the motherboard. 

Always pre-drill at 1mm smaller then bolt size on the resin parts to avoid bursting.

All screw kits have a set screw on occasions if a certain screw is t available we will swap this out for a similar screw. 

 

 

Shipping:

Please note that we ship from the UK which means if your not based in the UK this will be international shipping, so this can take a timeframe to get to you we prepare all the customs paperwork as heads forward to delivery and we are constantly updated and we also update the receiver. 

 

 

3D parts:

When using 3D parts such as the trap and pedal kit there is video's available for this we always recommend to spray sand spray sand over and over to creat a nice layer for the traps. 

 

 

Trap and pedal videos:

https://youtu.be/gWkf7Ujh9IY

https://youtu.be/2_Xiwz1f1rs

 

 

 

 

Proton pack instructions:

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Gun video below - 

 

 

 

 

Pictures for the wand build 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zifss38napqeuf8/AABvXw6BEQ_lIx8OzPw2Fi66a?dl=0

Extra kit/Screw kit info:

 

When doing this kit the products we highly recommend are:

(Optional) Car filler/Bondo

Drill 

Dremel

Sanding blocks

Various Grit sandpaper’s from 120-240

Basic Tap set (M3 M4 M5)

Superglue/Gorilla glue 

Masking tape 

 

When drilling into the parts (resin) please always pre-Drill the holes in the resin parts for screws, we use 5mm Drill bit for the 5.5mm screws so that it won’t burst the resin. Always drill very slowly to avoid heat build up, as this can make the resin burst. If that happens this can be fixed with car filler, but message us anytime and we can talk you through this. 

 

 

The proton pack shell: 

 

The shell when not attached to the Motherboard must be kept on a true flat surface to avoid warping, never leave,  the shell standing on its bed when not attached to the motherboard and never spray the shell or leave the shell in direct sunlight, as extreme heat can cause damage. Always spray shells in shaded areas and build the coats of paint up very lightly in order to get a good finish. 

 

In regard to the coloured cables they can tend to be stiff when new, when using these to build your pack please soak them in hot water or gently heat with a Hair dryer this will allow more flexibility. The gun cable is very stiff and can over time start to flex more, again this would need usage to do this. The cable in the Ghostbusters film is split which has an exposed line we don’t use this however we use,  

Splitless loom to protect the electronics that run in the cable to the wand.

 

Sometimes when adding electronics to the motherboard can push the shell away from the motherboard leaving a Gap between shell and motherboard, around the edge, this is something that happened in the films, but what we do is identify which internal components are causing the pressure so to stop it getting any worse, also sometimes if the Alice frame is attached to tightly it can cause a slight bend in the motherboard which can result in a gap, sometimes it can be bent back by hand to close the gap but if not we recommend using a soft wood clamp to close the gap then apply gentle heat from a hair dryer to a surrounding 10inch radius of the gap once you’ve got it warm leave it to cool over night and this will fix the problem. 

 

Some people find you get rattling between the shell and motherboard due to powerful base speakers the simplest way of fixing this is to, find some extremely thin draught excluder tape and apply to the motherboard  where the shell and motherboard meet. 

 

When putting the shell onto motherboard make sure not to over tighten the screws they should, be no more then finger tight as this can damage the shell and damage the threads.

 

When cutting the holes for the main gun tube for the shell and crank generator box we recommend using a 25mm hole cutter, you may need to use an extension for the crank generator box as where the gun mounts tend to get in the way. There is a couple of tight fits to get to on the shell. 

The metal vacuum tube that goes on to the shell hole, needs to be slightly keyed and the holes sanded around the edges for this to fit in. Fixing this in you should sand the bottom of the hole and the inside of the metal tube we then mix up a small amount of car filler and carefully wipe it inside the hole in the shell. Then you can push the vacuum tube down into it and from inside of the tube wipe the filler round so it goes inside, making sure this is straight before the filler goes off. Car filler is very strong and can be difficult to correct. 

 

The Hatlights that are provided are glued on and the electronics are pulled through the hole.

 

The vacuum tube cable is cut from the main gun cable, we usually cut off about slightly less then, 12 inches. 

 

The powercell lenses and cyclotron lenses need to be sanded to the size of the holes, to fit these in I suggest a light coating of superglue around the edges of the lenses, it can be tricky but works well, we use a cocktail stick dipped into superglue to apply the thinnest traces, around the edge of the hole and then push the lense in and leave it to grip. We also use a thin layer of masking tape on the inside if the cyclotron lenses which acts as a diffuser to the light and helps to strength the location of the lenses to the shell. 

 

Benofkent Pack screw list

 

This list is for stock ordering purposes and lengths may differ slightly depending on current supplier. 

 

Gun

 

Gun base plate  

6x m4 16mm Black cap head bolts 

 

SLO blow rear plate 2x m4 16mm 

 

Trigger box

2x m4 16mm Black cap head bolts 

 

Gun rear box 

2x m4 30mm Black cap head bolts 

With nyloc nuts 

 

Gun clipboard 

2x m5 16mm cheese head screws 

 

Front mini barrel and rear cylinder

2x m5 30mm Black cap head bolts 

 

 

 

Barrel attachment rear of front grip

1x m3 10mm Black cap head bolt 

 

 

Pack screws 

 

Ion arm, Injectors,  Beam line and fillers, I

6x m5.5 75mm self drilling roofing screws 

These must be pre drilled at 5mm first to avoid bursting resin 

 

Booster tube and frame 

4x m5 30mm Black cap head bolts 

 

HGA

1x m5 90mm countersunk bolt 

M5 washer and nyloc nut

 

 

 

Clipped bolts p

2x m5 30mm Black cap screws

 

Resistors

4x m3 10mm Black cap head bolts 

 

Crank knob 

1x m4 30mm 

 

Bumper screws, Shell screws

GB1 8x m6 30mm Black cap head bolts

GB2 8x m6 30mm Button head bolt

 

Shock mount 

M6 70mm coach bolt 

P clip

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